One of the most famous spa towns in the world with over 80 thermal springs, gushing non-stop! A place filled with impressive neoclassical and art nouveau buildings, tremendous natural beauty and picturesque scenes. Karlovy Vary is sure to amaze you.
A few words about the city
Karlovy Vary is a spa town in Western Bohemia, located in the Tepla River valley near the border with Germany. It was founded by Emperor Charles IV in the 14th century and its name means "Charles' Baths". The city is also known for its international film festival and the famous Czech liqueur Karlovarská Becherovka. It is a popular destination, especially for international celebrities who visit the spa town, and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2021, along with other spa towns in Europe. According to the latest census, the city has 48,723 permanent residents. So I will try to present Karlovy Vary to you through my own eyes and share with you what I believe a first-time visitor should see.
Mlýnská kolonáda
The most characteristic sights of Karlovy Vary are its colonnades. These are architectural ornaments that adorn the heart of the old town. The most famous of them is the Mill Colonnade (Mlýnská kolonáda), which is located on the banks of the Tepla River. It was built from 1871 to 1881 by the Czech architect Josef Žitek and is 132 meters high, and has 124 Corinthian columns! The building is spread over two levels, has five heated springs and several sculptures, including 12 pediments on the roof representing the months of the year. Finally, free concerts by the Prague Orchestra are often held inside this colonnade.
Vřídelní kolonáda
The Hot Spring Colonnade (Vřídelní kolonáda) is housed in a modern building with a glass dome, which was built over the Tepla River in the 1960s. Previously, there was a separate colonnade made of cast iron at the same location, but the Germans melted it down during the occupation to produce war material! There you will find the city’s first, largest and most famous hot spring, which shoots water 12 meters high at a temperature of 72°C! As the water is too hot for many patients, it is divided into five smaller “fountains”, where it cools down to temperatures of 50°C and 30°C, making it suitable for consumption for treatment. It is open daily and admission is free.
Market Colonnade
My personal favorite colonnade in the city is the Main Market Colonnade (Tržní kolonáda). It is a white, ornate wooden colonnade, built in the Swiss style by the famous architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer in 1833! There you will find three thermal springs: the Charles IV spring, the South Castle spring, and the Market spring. The first spring has a temperature of 64°C and was named after Emperor Charles IV, where, according to legend, he healed his leg in the thermal waters of the spring! The second has a temperature of 55°C and is one of the two in the castle (the other is called the North Castle spring), while the two of them differ in temperature due to altitude! Finally, the third spring has a temperature of 65.2°C and had repeatedly disappeared, but reappeared in 1838!
Sadová kolonáda
The last colonnade that deserves your attention is the Park Colonnade (Sadová kolonáda)! It was built by the same architects of the Main Market Colonnade in 1881 and is the last part of the former concert hall and restaurant Blamenský Pavillion. It has 2 thermal springs: the Park Spring with 41.6 °C and the Snake Spring (Hadí pramen) with 28.7 °C, which is also the most recent!
Karlovarské městské divadlo
In the city center, you will also find the Karlovy Vary Theatre (Karlovarské městské divadlo). This is a truly imposing building with a strong Rococo element, which was inaugurated on May 15, 1886 with the performance of Mozart's "The Marriage of Figaro". Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer also had their hand here, while the interior decoration was taken care of by the brothers Gustav and Ernst Klimt together with Franz Matz. The sculptural decorations, frescoes, statues, chandeliers, Rococo lamps and antiques make it unique of its kind. So if you find yourself in the city and there is a performance, don't miss the opportunity to watch it!
Kostel Maří Magdalény
Very close to the theater and the city park is the Church of Mary Magdalene (Kostel Maří Magdalény). It was built between 1733 and 1736 in Baroque style, so that Catholics from Rome who lived in the city could pray! You will recognize it by the impressive twin bell towers, which are visible from afar. It also has an impressive interior, with the Baroque altar and Gothic statues standing out. Finally, do not forget to visit the burial crypt in the Gothic-style basement.
Chrám sv. apoštolů Petra a Pavla
The city's other church worth visiting is the Orthodox Church of Peter and Paul (Chrám sv. apoštolů Petra a Pavla). This particular church is located outside the city center in the Westend district and will impress you with its golden domes and blue details on its exterior. It was built between 1893–1898, in the style of an old Byzantine-Russian church like the one in Ostankino near Moscow with money from Serbian and Russian visitors to the city, who wanted a place of worship during their stay.
Rozhledna Diana
If you want to see Karlovy Vary from above, you should climb the monumental Diana observation tower (Rozhledna Diana), located just outside the city center. It was built of brick and wood between 1912 and 1914 and is 40 meters high. You can reach the point either by cable car from the Grandhotel Pupp, or via beautiful hiking trails.
Museums
There are many museums and art spaces in Karlovy Vary that are worth your attention, but three stand out. I suggest you start with the Moser Glass Museum, which is one of the most famous in Eastern Europe. With over 165 years of experience and skills (it started in 1857), the museum hosts over 2,000 exhibits. There is also the possibility of a guided tour in English, in the factory, where you can see up close the process you follow to make a glass vase, glass and other glass creations. The entrance fee costs 350 korunas, which is about 14 euros.
Continue to the Karlovy Vary Museum (Muzeum Karlovy Vary), which was started by the famous spa doctor and doctor of medicine Joseph von Lesner. It has a series of objects that tell the history of the city over the years, such as a collection of objects made of pewter, glass, porcelain and wood, a collection of weapons, a collection of objects that tell the history of hot springs and spas, a collection of natural history and local art with paintings and sculptures, and an archaeological collection. Admission costs 110 korunas, or about 4.5 euros.
Finally, don’t miss the Jan Becher Museum. It is housed in one of the city’s most historic buildings, in the factory where the local unique liqueur “Becherovka” is produced. During a tour of the museum you will learn all about the history, production and storage of the liqueur. You will also see historical artifacts and a short educational film, while finally you can buy Becherovka in a local shop located next to the museum or enjoy it in the museum bar. Admission costs 280 korunas, which is about 11 euros.
Spa
As you may have already guessed, Karlovy Vary is a place full of thermal springs. This has made it, since its foundation, an ideal city for relaxation and rejuvenation. Thus, in Karlovy Vary there are dozens of spas and spa hotels, but some stand out a little more as they are also part of the history of the city. The most important of these are the Windsor Medical Complex & Spa Hotel, the Elisabeth Spa, the Grandhotel Pupp, the Lazne III and the Hotel Imperial. The first two are public, with the Windsor being one of the oldest and most historic buildings in the city, built in 1866 and continuing to offer traditional high-level spa services. The second was named after Queen Sisi and was founded in 1906, while at the time it opened it performed 2,000 treatments a day! The rest are private luxury spa hotels, which are part of the history of the famous spa town.
How to go
There is no airport in Karlovy Vary, so you will have to reach the city by bus from a nearby city. The most convenient is, of course, Prague. At the moment, Thessaloniki is not directly connected by air to Prague, so to reach the city you will have to make at least one stopover. The most economical option comes from a combination of flights between Wizz Air and Ryanair, via Budapest, which with proper planning can find tickets starting from 127€ round trip!
Where to stay
Karlovy Vary is one of the most popular destinations in the Czech Republic, both for its beauty and for its famous baths. This means a wealth of accommodation for all tastes and all budgets. The hotel I have to recommend is located in the heart of the old town, 200 meters from the thermal springs. This is the EA Hotel Mozart, a three-star hotel that features beautiful and renovated rooms, capable of satisfying every need of a modern traveler.
How to move
The best way to get around Karlovy Vary is on foot. The city is quite small and everything is concentrated in the old town! However, there is a bus system in the city, which is mainly used to get from the train station to the city center, as well as to explore the surrounding areas.
What to eat
Czech cuisine is one of those we call "heavy" cuisines! It is characterized by the strong presence of meat, sauces and vegetables, while all dishes are accompanied by a cold beer. One of the most traditional dishes of the country is Svíčková na smetaně, which is a marinated veal fillet, which is usually served with a kind of doublings or puree. As in most Central European countries, in the Czech Republic, of course, goulash is very popular, while the locals also prefer duck, minced meat roll and all kinds of soup. Finally, while in the city, you should definitely try the local unique liqueur Becherovka. If you want to taste delicious local dishes, I recommend visiting Staroceska Restaurace, for dessert Café Elefant and for coffee Café Krakhmalnikov Brothers.
Useful information
In Karlovy Vary we travel with a new type of Passport or Police ID, where the data is written in Latin characters.
In Karlovy Vary the language used is, of course, Czech. However, most, if not all, speak English, so ask for clarifications in English.
The country's currency is the Czech Koruna (CZK) and its exchange rate is currently 1€ = 23.57 korunas.
Karlovy Vary is one hour behind Greece (GMT +1).
There is no Greek embassy or consulate in Karlovy Vary, so if you need anything, you should contact the nearest one, which is located in Prague, at Na Orechovce 19 and its telephone numbers are 222250943, 222250955.
In winter, temperatures are quite low, usually below zero, so the ideal time to visit the city is spring.
Recommended excursions → Prague, Dresden, Nuremberg, Chemnitz
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Mouzakidis Pantelis